Polymer Clay Message Board - Polymer Clay Forum - The Clay Store

theraje · Clay Captain Joined: 03 Jul 2005 Posts: 14

Hey everybody! I'm new around here. I joined this forum because I've never worked with polymer clays, but am very interested in beginning. I'm a lone-wolf computer game developer, and am looking into getting started in physical board games. The main reason I'm interested in polymer clay for game pieces is that the other materials I've researched, such as pewter, plastics, and wood, are either too expensive or too time-consuming to make.

After someone suggested modelling clay, I stumbled upon Polymer Clay Central, which is how I landed here. It looks like polymer clay is what I'm looking for. But, just to make sure, I have a couple of questions. Smile

1: How suitable is polymer clay to making articulate game pieces that will be 3"-4" tall, and 1"-1.5" in diameter? (Think about the king in a standard chess set, but shaped like a person)

2: What supplies are absolutely necessary to get started? I plan to get at least the clay (of course), a toaster oven, an X-Acto knife (already have one, so that's taken care of), and a pasta maker (if I can find one). Anything else?

3: What brand(s) of polymer clay would be most suitable to making the game pieces I described above?

4: (Last one, I promise Wink

) What is the best/easiest way to make a mold for polymer clay?

Thanks! Very Happy

jnmurtha · Clay Commander Joined: 09 May 2005 Posts: 66

I would think that polymer clay would be perfect for what you need it for.

I have made very intricate molds out of the clay: I will sometimes take a piece of jewelry I already have with lots of designs on it and duplicate it in polymer clay. I've had a lot of success with this.
As far as making larger pieces out of the clay, one option is to make an armature out of aluminum foil first, then cover the clay with that. It will make the piece lighter, and obviously you will use less clay. However, in the case of making game pieces, you might want to have the piece heavier. So I would say just experiement on this one.
Here is my list of "must have" suppies:
1. Pasta Machine (!! I can't live without it)
2. I use my regular home oven for baking, but a toaster oven works fine, too.
3. A brayer to smooth the clay
4. Tissue blade slicer
In addition, I love the pearl-ex powders and the Sculpey texture sheets for some really interesting designs and surface treatments on things I make.
As far as brands are concerned, you will do best with a firmer clay, that being said, with the exception of Fimo Classic I haven't found one that is firm enough on it's own yet. So what I do is "leach" the clay before using, it's really simple, just condition your clay, roll it out flat (number 1 on the pasta machine is perfect) and lay it on a piece of clean white paper, lay another piece of the paper on top, then place a very heavy object on top of that. In a few hours you will see that a lot of the plasticizer in the clay has leached out into the paper, thus giving you a firmer clay to work with.
Sounds funny I know but I've made some very strong, intricate sculptures with clay that's been conditioned like this.
Mold making: I've had good luck with Super Sculpey clay for molds. It's fairly inexpensive for a 1lb block, not too sticky, and seems to do the job for me.
Well, there's my two cents worth!! Hope this helps!!

Jenn R

theraje · Clay Captain Joined: 03 Jul 2005 Posts: 14

Thank you very much, Jenn, that's a great help to me! Very Happy

I might have to post some pictures of the figures on my Web site when I have them made, and let you know when they're up. Don't be disappointed if I don't though... I've never sculpted anything before, I'm more of a digital/paper&pencil artist. Razz

Naomi · Clay Captain Joined: 12 Jun 2005 Posts: 26 Location: USA

Hello Theraje! Polymer clay is perfect for your needs. I've used pc to sculpt, and mold, figures for my jewelry. I will post pictures of some of the polymer clay jewelry I've made with sculpted and molded figures in the Artist Gallery forum. Premo is my favorite clay. It doesn't seem as soft to me after conditioning as Sculpey III, making it easy for me to work with when it comes to small detailing. I only use Premo for my finished projects, but I have used Sculpey III to make molds, and the molds have turned out fine.

I recommend also getting wet/dry sandpaper because it is great for adding texture to unbaked polymer clay, and to smooth the finish on your completed piece. 400, 600, and 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper are good for both purposes. I use 400 to 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper, but up to 800 grit will still give you a smooth surface.

When I'm making a mold I cover the surface of the conditioned polymer clay with a light dusting of baby powder, and gently smooth the baby powder over the polymer clay surface with my fingers. I tap, or gently blow, off the excess baby powder, and then make the impression. The baby powder can be rinsed off with water after making the impression, and before baking the polymer clay. Let the polymer clay dry completely before baking. The baby powder keeps whatever I'm making an impression of from sticking to the polymer clay, and distorting the image.

I hope those suggestions are helpful.

theraje · Clay Captain Joined: 03 Jul 2005 Posts: 14

Thank you for those tips, Naomi! I'm really looking forward to getting started with the "real deal" (I've been practicing with regular-old non-hardening clay to practice), and the information you just gave me I'm sure will be a great help. Thanks again! Smile